What to do in the garden in June
- Harvest salad crops and re-sow every 2 weeks for a constant supply.
- Make last sowing of French beans and peas. Sow a quick maturing early pea, so that you can harvest the peas before cold autumn nights.
- Continue sowing root vegetables like carrots, beetroot, swede and turnip to provide winter crops.
- Sow Chinese cabbage. June is also good time for sowing spinach beet. Winter salads can also be started now by sowing chicory and endive towards the end of June. The ones sown last month can be thinned.
- Thin carrots, and make sure to firm the soil around remaining plants to deter carrot flies. Always remove the thinning, as they will attract carrot flies.
- Continue earthing up potato plants as they grow. If newly planted in containers, keep the compost moist, but do not overwater, as this compacts the soil, squeezing out the oxygen, and prevents to develop tubers from swelling.
- Harvest early potatoes (usually ready 10 weeks after planting).
- Plant out tomatoes, aubergines, pumpkins, peppers, runner and French beans, sweetcorn (once the frost is over).
- Plant winter celery in trenches.
- Expose shallots to ripen.
- When planting tomatoes outside, they should be 15-23cm tall, with the first flower truss just showing. Give them the sunniest, most sheltered spot, and provide the stake for each plant.
- Pinch out any side shoots from your tomato plants. If you pot these, they will create new tomato plants. Start feeding with Ecoworm Soil Extract for Tomatoes & Peppers, when the first truss is setting fruit.
- Plant-out brassicas, broccoli, kale, Brussels sprouts, cauliflower and cabbage as soon as the young plants have made four or five true leaves.
- Keep an eye on your onion and garlic. When the leaves start to yellow, it is ready to harvest.
- Harden off and plant tender vegetables such as squash, tomatoes, courgettes, sweet corn etc. (if you haven’t done it yet).
- When planting out cabbages, use brassica collars to keep cabbage root fly away.
- Protect crops from carrot fly by covering with horticultural fleece.
- Start harvesting herbs. If you are picking herbs for drying do it before the flowers open, on a dry, sunny day.
- Stake Jerusalem artichokes if they are growing in a very windy spot.
- Feed vegetables with organic Ecoworm Soil Extract.
- Start pruning your cherry and plum trees now.
- Thin out congested branches of the fruit trees. Even if they naturally shed some fruit trees, if you thin them out, you will get bigger and better fruits.
- Feed your fruiting container plants with Ecoworm Soil Extract, which is high in potassium and will keep them healthy and productive.
- Layer strawberries and remove unwanted runners. You can use runners to start new plants for next season. Any unwanted runners can be cut off to endure the energy stays in the parent plant to produce new fruit. Keep in mind that the parent plants will weaken after a few years’ cropping and older plants can become prone to virus infections and mildew.
- Protect any developing fruits from squirrels and birds with nets around the plants.
- Feed your dwarf fruit trees with Ecoworm Soil Extract.
- Start summer-pruning gooseberries and red currants at the end of the month, but not blackcurrants. Gradually shorten the tips of the side shoots to about 7.5 cm from the stems, or just above the fifth leaf on new growth. As gooseberry mildew is partial to the soft, new, tip growth, pruning gooseberries now reduces the chance of infection.
- Continue tying in the young shoots of cane fruit.
- Train and pollinate melons. After the growing point has been pinched out, side shoots will form. Allow four per plant and pinch out any others, then spread the four shoots out in opposite directions. Pinch out the growing tips of these side shoots when each has produced five leaves, to get sub-laterals and flowers. Melons grown under frames or cloches will need hand pollinating to ensure that pollination takes place.
- Continue training and tying in grape vines.
- Water potted blueberries with rainwater, as the lime contained in tap water reduces the acidity of the soil over time.
- Feed your lawn with Ecoworm Soil Extract for Lawns to encourage healthy green growth.
- Recut lawn edges.
- Raise your mower blades to reduce stress on the grass, if it hasn’t been raining much. This will reduce stress on the grass.
- Water your lawn during hot weather, especially newly seeded or turfed lawns. When you do water the lawn always water well as light watering will only lead to shallow-rooting grass, which makes it even more vulnerable to drought, and also encourages the growth of moss.
TREES & SHRUBS
- Dis-bud roses if larger blooms are wanted.
- Continue trimming hedges.
- Prune early-flowering clematis.
- Prune wall-grown shrubs, which have finished flowering to keep them in-check and prune any early flowering shrubs to encourage the growth of new shoots to provide next year’s flowers.
- The main exception to the prune after flowering rule is for shrubs that provide winter berries, such as Pyracantha. So if you prune hard after flowering, you will have virtually no berries in the following autumn and winter.
- Harden off and move hanging baskets into their final position. Trim your handing basket plants if they become leggy. Trim off the excess to encourage bushy new growth.
- Lift and divide clumps of snowdrops and bluebells, once the leaves start to yellow.
- Lift and divide overcrowded clumps of bulbs.
- Wait for the bulb foliage to die down naturally before cutting back.
- Pinch out the tips of fuchsias to encourage a bushy habitat and more flowers.
- Continue thinning out drifts of hardy annuals if they’re overcrowded.
- Dead-head your roses if they’re repeat-flowering types. Otherwise, leave the seed heads on for decoration.
- Prune out overcrowded or dead stems of evergreen clematis once they have finishes flowering to maintain a good shape.
- Harvest lavender flower heads to use in baking, crafting, or a decoration to your meals.
- Cut back hardy geraniums once they finished flowering, to encourage new foliage and flowers.